Northern Carretera Austral + Chiloé
A round-trip route from Puerto Varas combining the northern Carretera Austral with the islands of Chiloé — fjords, rainforest and stilt-house villages.
This route covers the northern part of the Carretera Austral and the island of Chiloé, starting and ending in Puerto Varas — a complete "round trip" version of the south's most loved camper journey.
The southern highway is a scenic route unlike anywhere else on Earth: over 1,200 km of pristine landscapes and air that only those lucky enough to drive it get to breathe. Raft the world-class Futaleufú, trek through Green Patagonia's national parks, then loop back through Chiloé's misty coast and World Heritage churches. For the ferry logistics on this route, see our Patagonia ferries guide.
The route at a glance
From Puerto Varas south into the Carretera Austral, then looping back through Chiloé — here's how the stops link together.
Destination by destination
Distances and drive times below are for each leg, measured from the previous stop. For the northern ferry crossings, see our ferries guide.
Hornopirén
From Puerto Varas / Puerto Montt, the first obligatory stop. Hornopirén is the gateway to the Carretera Austral — it's here that you board the barges to cross the fjord toward Caleta Gonzalo and continue south by land. Reserve the Hornopirén–Caleta Gonzalo crossing in advance at barcazas.cl.
Parque PumalĂn
Barges usually leave HornopirĂ©n around 10am, arriving at Caleta Gonzalo — the entrance to Parque PumalĂn — in the afternoon. Almost untouched, this temperate rainforest is a declared Nature Sanctuary, with long trails, canyoning through fjords and campsites at the foot of hidden waterfalls. Explore the Michinmahuida volcano on horseback, wander its larch forests on wooden walkways, and watch for everything from herons and flamingos to condors. Several campgrounds; some need booking ahead.
FutaleufĂş
Set deep in the Andes, "Futaleufú" means "big river" in Mapudungun — and its namesake is rated among the three best rivers on the planet for kayaking and rafting. Do you dare take it on? For something quieter, hike or bike the trails of the Futaleufú National Reserve, which protects the mountain cypress and the shy huemul, one of Chile's national symbols.
P.N. Queulat
A place where the forest seems to sink between fjords and channels, giving rise to the lush evergreen rainforest — the southernmost point of this loop. Trek the trails surrounded by water and woods, and let the famous Ventisquero Colgante (Hanging Glacier), with its lagoons and waterfalls, pull you into pure contemplation. If adventure is your thing, kayak the area and then unwind in the local hot springs.
Lago Yelcho
On the way back north toward Chaitén, the emerald green of these southern waters and the promise of sport fishing make Lake Yelcho one of the region's most surprising stops. Set in Puerto Cárdenas, just over 40 km from Chaitén, its glacial origin, fertile surrounding hills and 11,000 hectares make it a true refuge — perfect for fly fishing and slowing down.
Castro
Castro, on the island of Chiloé, is famous for the colorful wooden palafitos (stilt houses) lining its coast. In the Plaza de Armas stands the bright-yellow Church of San Francisco, with its two bell towers and striking wooden interior; nearby, a craft fair sells woven baskets, and the Museum of Modern Art shows Chilean artists. To the west lies Chiloé National Park, home to sea lions.
Cucao
A village of around 500 people on the Isla Grande de Chiloé — the only town on the island's western coast, about 50 km from Castro. Surrounded by legend and often wrapped in mist, here you'll find nature at its purest: the wild Pacific, long beaches, forests, green meadows and large lakes. With little time, you can still reach it on a day tour from Chonchi or Castro to visit the national park and the Muelle de las Almas.
Isla Lemuy
Isla Lemuy stands out for its landscapes and its three UNESCO World Heritage churches: Ichuac, Aldachildo and Detif. By camper we love doing a circuit around the island — reached by ferry south of Castro, it can be toured in half a day, with the option to stay overnight. Visit the villages and beaches, but above all the churches of Ichuac, Aldachildo, Puchilco and Detif.
Duhatao
Just over 30 km from Ancud, BahĂa Duhatao is a privileged corner shaped by a past of active volcanism, Pacific erosion and almost untouched forest. Few people live here — just vegetation, wildlife, and a soundtrack where the ocean gives way to the calls of chucaos, fĂo-fĂos, rayaditos and hummingbirds. A fitting final stop before the loop back to Puerto Varas.
Ready for the Austral + Chiloé loop?
We're a local 4×4 camper crew based in Puerto Varas since 2018. Tell us your dates and we'll help you shape this round trip — ferries, driving times and the best overnight stops.
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